080 BARCELONA FASHION: SS24 | CRASH Magazine
FASHION

080 BARCELONA FASHION: SS24

By Roisin Breen

Barcelona, known for its rich cultural heritage and artistic influence, recently played host to the 32nd edition of 080 Barcelona Fashion, a renowned platform for showcasing the fusion of global fashion trends and innovation. This season, the event continued to uphold its commitment to internationalization, diversity, and technology, while underlining the significance of sustainability, circularity, and creativity in the fashion world.

The platform has been a trailblazer in promoting sustainable practices within the fashion industry. This commitment resonated throughout the 32nd edition, as designers and fashion brands engaged in an ongoing dialogue to incorporate sustainable and circular fashion practices into their collections. The result was a stunning array of garments made from recycled and sustainable fabrics, as well as timeless pieces that transcend seasonal trends. It’s a clear indication of how the industry is evolving to embrace a more environmentally conscious approach.

The schedule was jam-packed with a diverse line-up of twenty-four designers and brands, all of whom shared a collective commitment to the values of sustainability, inclusivity, and genderless fashion. Among them were established labels as well as promising newcomers, all united in their dedication to shaping a more responsible and timeless fashion landscape.

The line-up included designers and brands such as All That She Loves, Amlul, Bielo_Oscarleon, Carlota Barrera, Cherry Massia, Como La Trucha al Trucho Studio, Custo Barcelona, Dominnico, Eñaut, Escorpion, Guillermina Baeza, Habey Club, JNORIG, Lebor Gabala, Lemāchet, Lola Casademunt by Maite, Nathalie Chandler, Outsiders Division, Paolo Leduc, Simorra, The Artelier, The Label Edition, Syndical Chamber, and Velásquez.

Discover some of our favorites below.

Cherry Massia

One of our personal highlights was Cherry Massia, a label founded by designer Irene R. Massia. Opening the season, the collection wove a captivating narrative, focusing on the fusion between the soul and love through the story of Psyche. Garments that played with structure and fluidity, organic shapes, and ruffles created a powerful, sensual, and ethereal silhouette. It was a striking interpretation of haute couture with underground aesthetics and a profound message. 

Born in Seville in 1995, Irene R. Massia has showcased her collections on runways in both Madrid and Paris. Her designs have adorned various celebrities from the music and entertainment world, including the likes of Milena Smit, Nathy Peluso, Aitana, Blanca Suárez, Lola Índigo, Ana Torroja, and Carolina Yuste, making a significant mark in the fashion industry.

Championing a fusion of philosophy, mythology, and fashion, Massia’s work consistently centers on femininity. Her garments serve as a medium for a profound dialogue between her inner emotions and the external world. Through her designs, she narrates stories in which themes of strength, duality, and evolution remain ever-present.

@cherrymassia

Syndical Chamber: Who the fuck gives a shit?

Syndical Chamber, designed by Sergio Castaño-Peña, made a bold and thought-provoking appearance at the 32nd edition of 080 Barcelona Fashion with its collection, « Who the F*** Gives a Sh*t. » This collection challenges conventional norms and invites viewers to question the status quo of the fashion industry. It featured a bold reinterpretation of volume and trimmings and introduced unconventional elements like enveloping structures. The garments range from playful tailoring to workwear-inspired pieces, transcending the boundaries of traditional haute couture. One of the standout features of this collection is its unapologetic critique of unsustainable fashion practices. It contrasts unrealistic utopian ideals, such as the American dream, with the repressive dictatorship of North Korea, prompting viewers to reflect on the darker aspects of our world.

Castaño-Peña, is a designer with a rich background working with brands like Desigual, Vetements, and Inditex. His experiences led him to Syndical Chamber, a platform for innovative concepts, blending surrealism with wearable pieces, and emphasizing individuality and sustainability.

@synidicalchamber

Paolo Leduc: Contraband Goods

A forever Crash favorite, Paolo Leduc’s « Contraband Goods » collection is a testament to the brand’s unyielding commitment to its DNA, emphasizing elements such as tailoring, craftsmanship, graffiti, and the rich culture of rock and punk. This time, the collection introduces a captivating hybrid of tailoring, couture, rock, and streetwear, underscoring the brand’s respect for the aesthetic of Mexican gang culture, particularly the figures of « cholos » and « Vatos Locos. »

In this collection, traditional tailoring forms are artfully distorted and garments undergo deconstruction, showcasing a bold approach to silhouettes. The use of digital printing, often employing the « trompe l’oeil » technique, and fabric manipulation breathe life into the designs, encapsulating the diverse inspiration drawn from the designer’s origins.

Paolo Leduc’s roots play a pivotal role in shaping this collection. His Spanish heritage infuses the designs with a baroque essence and a sense of excess, while his French roots bring a more classical and artisanal dimension. This interplay between light and shadow, day and night, fuels the brand’s DNA, creating a striking balance that is distinctly Paolo Leduc.

For Paolo, creativity has been a lifelong journey. From his childhood to adolescence, he expressed his artistic inclinations through graffiti, painting on walls, trains, wood scraps, and even on his own clothes and body. His creative spirit draws from a myriad of influences, including theater, cinema, and nature. Paolo’s educational journey led him to the Instituto Europeo di Design in Barcelona, where he initially pursued graphic design but later transitioned to the study of menswear tailoring. Fashion became the canvas through which he could fully unleash his creative potential.

@paololeduc

Outsiders Division: Extraordinario

This was where the fun kicked off and the party began. Welcome inside the head of creative director David Méndez Alonso, if they say that a creator’s work reflects their character, and in Outsiders Division’s latest episode, aptly titled « Extraordinary, » the eccentricities and passions of this unique, trail-blazing designer were a visual feast of thirty-six remarkable looks he presented this season.

Once again, Outsiders Division masterfully combines opposing elements to create a dynamic fusion of conflicts and aesthetics that coexist in harmonious contradiction. Fueled by the freedom and a quasi-naive sense of enjoyment that define the brand, David’s designs are a tapestry of references drawn from popular culture, the underground scene, and contemporary art, among other influences.

In this collection, a series of garments celebrate his characteristic « Preppy-punk » style, paying homage to the perpetual Peter Pan—the grandfather who never truly grew up. It reinforces his fascination with the enigmatic and contradictory. The collection boasts tulle skirts that dance with whimsy, classic sweaters and cardigans that exude timeless comfort, a ceramic bag, and an expansive array of colors that come together to form an almost infinite palette.

Outsiders Division’s unwavering commitment to the extraordinary and the unconventional remains the driving force behind their creative process. This collection is an invitation for all misfits to see themselves reflected in these garments, embracing their unique individuality.

David Méndez Alonso, a multidisciplinary artist and fashion designer born in Galicia, Spain, possesses a unique sensitivity and an aesthetic rooted in color. His work defies reality and emotions, embracing the motto « the beauty of error. » His projects transport us into realms of dreamlike fantasy, where he unleashes his boundless imagination through design, drawing, sculpting, installation, recreation, painting, and fearless play.

Self-identifying as an ‘Outsider’ in 2012, he founded his brand, Outsiders Division. It presents multiple collections each year, featuring fashion shows, campaigns, and an extensive array of products, clothing, and accessories. David’s impressive career includes collaborations with major brands such as Adidas, Converse, Nike, H&M, Levi’s, Pull&Bear, and Reebok. His work has graced exhibitions in prominent cities around the world, from London to Dubai, Beijing, New York, Berlin, Madrid, Monterrey, and Paris.

Outsiders Division is a celebration of the extraordinary, a tribute to the misfits, and a testament to the power of embracing one’s unique essence.

@outsidersdivision

Dominnico: Maemuki 

And no round up of 808 Barcelona would be complete without a special mention for cult favorite, Dominnico. Designed by Creative Director, Domingo Rodríguez, the Spring 2024, entitled Maemuki brought the fire to the week drawing inspiration from Japanese culture and urban tribes like the Gyaru and the Sweet Lolitas, weaving a diverse tapestry that merges various fashion trends. In Maemuki, there is a captivating blend of influences, from SteamPunk to the Metaverse, craftsmanship to upcycling, all coexisting harmoniously in the digital age.

This collection also embraces the Kawaii aesthetic, known for its charming cuteness, and the sweet color schemes that have become emblematic of the label. As always with Dominnico a provocative interplay between naivety and hardness is at play. It seamlessly combines emblematic pieces from previous collections with new introductions. Classic lingerie elements like pleats, ruffles, ribbons, and lace share space with BDSM-inspired elements such as harnesses, vinyl, heart-shaped buckles, and metal appliqués and trimmings.In terms of materials, the brand remains committed to sustainability by using recycled denim, leather, fur, and lycra. The color palette is awash with milky tones, white, and silver, creating a visual experience that’s both provocative and alluring. 

Celebrities like Lady Gaga, Beyoncé, Rosalía, and Dua Lipa have donned Dominnico both on-stage and off at parties, catapulting the brand to international acclaim.

@dominnico

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