BACKSTAGE AT Y/PROJECT FALL WINTER 2016 PARIS
By Crash redaction
Y/PROJECT BACKSTAGE: WOMEN’S FALL-WINTER 2016
This was certainly the event of Paris Fashion Week. Yesterday, Glenn Martens presented his first ever womenswear collection on the official Parisian schedule for Fall-Winter 2016. For several seasons now, the designer has been taking the fashion world by storm with his independent, irreverent take on clothing, taking the lead of a new generation of designers focusing on a more acute way of making clothes. The show took place in the rooms of Lycée Charlemagne, in the capital’s fourth arrondissement. On the runway, the collection was a continuation of the one shown this January during menswear week, with an added femininity and a new sense of poise. Opening the show, a textured grey suit with a high-waisted skirt buttoned on the front. Zippers on the arms showed a deep blue velvet blouse underneath, hold up by a black leather bustier. There was the balance between hard and soft. The following silhouettes were cinched at the waist with large belts featuring the graphic « Y », and proportion was provided by the tops with roomy sleeves. Of course, denim was of importance in this collection as well, and referenced menswear silhouettes with loose-fitted or extra long trousers. On fluid blouses, bows are formed with strips of fabric coming out of round cut-outs, and the collection is at its best with V-neck velvet dresses with bare shoulders that reinvent our perception of femininity, particularly when worn over ruffled turtlenecks. Glenn Martens found the balance between a raw and delicate silhouette, and is definitely one of our favorites in the run for the LVMH Prize.
Photography: Ilan Zerbib for Crash
