In 2023, Bulgari’s iconic Serpenti, a symbol of endless metamorphosis, will celebrate its 75th anniversary. Its enduring fascination, both contemporary and timeless, has evolved over three-quarters of a century while staying true to its original essence, solidifying its status as an emblem that embodies determination, strength, and transformation. It has profoundly impacted Bulgari’s history and the world of jewelry at large.

The Evolution of an Icon

The Serpenti’s history transcends time, space, and creativity, originating in Bulgari’s watchmaking in the late 1940s. Here, the brand first explored the ancient serpent motif through essential and elegant jewelry watches, featuring Tubogas coils – seamlessly connected coils of gold. In the challenging post-war years, where sourcing gemstones and precious metals was difficult, the House’s innovative spirit combined aesthetic sobriety with progress.

The first transformation of the symbol occurred in the 1950s, shifting from functional timepieces to precious objects. In the 1960s, as the House introduced necklaces to the line, the motif continued to evolve with exquisite craftsmanship. Tubogas models remained constant, but the flexible, sinuous body was now covered in individually handcrafted scales. These scales gave rise to bold new color combinations and the introduction of unusual materials in high jewelry, such as polychrome enamels. Crafting these masterpieces demanded extraordinary craftsmanship: three days to add color to the scales with glass paste and an average of two hundred hours to create each piece. Serpenti enamel pieces quickly became cult objects for collectors worldwide, with production never exceeding one hundred pieces. In 1962, during the filming of « Cleopatra » in Rome, Elizabeth Taylor cherished her Serpenti wristwatch, considering it a precious talisman connecting her to the legendary Queen of the Nile. « The only Italian word Liz knows is Bulgari, » Richard Burton said during the Dolce Vita years. Elizabeth Taylor was a great fan of the House’s jewelry, always visiting the historic Via Condotti boutique during her trips to Rome.

In the 1970s, as the brand conquered the American market, the Serpenti emblem continued to evolve in the world of watchmaking while becoming an increasingly prominent piece of jewelry, especially in necklaces and belts. The futuristic style of new Tubogas interpretations captivated a prestigious audience. Andy Warhol, one of the most influential artists of the 20th century, owned a three-coil Serpenti Tubogas and famously said, « When I’m in Rome, I always go to the Bulgari store because it’s the most important museum of contemporary art. » Diana Vreeland, the chic, eccentric, and brilliant US Vogue journalist, in 1968, wrote a personal memo to her colleagues, insisting on the importance of the Bulgari snake in fashion: « Never forget the snake… one should have snakes at every finger and around every wrist and everywhere… One can never have enough. »

In the 1980s, the brand enhanced the Tubogas Serpenti watch range with the iconic « BVLGARI » double-engraved bezel, following the success of the famous BVLGARI BVLGARI watch launched in 1977, which featured the logo as a key design element, foreshadowing the 1980s logo craze. These models gained immense popularity and adorned celebrities at major fashion events worldwide.

In the 1990s, Serpenti rings with three loops and precious gemstones were introduced. More recently, Serpenti has continued to evolve through increasingly stylized interpretations, highlighting the snake’s magnetic scales in a contemporary hexagonal pattern. In the 2000s, the Serpenti line expanded to include fascinating interpretations in bags and accessories, and since 2021, the icon has adorned bracelets, rings, and pendants in the Serpenti Viper collection, characterized by strong design and unique scales.

Serpenti Factory: A Celebration of 75 Years

In 2023, to commemorate Serpenti’s 75th anniversary, Bulgari launched an international artistic initiative centered around the serpent as an endless source of creative inspiration: Serpenti Factory. This approach encompasses various aspects of the emblem, from heritage and craftsmanship to multisensory technologies and an advertising campaign celebrating the motif’s 75th anniversary. Bulgari selected only five cities worldwide for this special exhibition. After Shanghai and Seoul, Milan takes the stage for the sole European stop on this incredible journey.

Running from October 11 to November 16 at the Dazio di Levante in Piazza Sempione, the Serpenti 75 Years of Infinite Tales exhibition narrates the unstoppable evolution of the emblem through a temporal sequence. Visitors can explore jewelry, watches, videos, and archival documents, from the first secret Serpenti watches and colorful 1960s creations to the Serpenti Viper collection and extraordinary high jewelry interpretations.

For this occasion, various international and Italian artists were invited to provide their interpretations of the Serpenti emblem, showcasing its eclectic character. The Factory features works by Quayola, Sougwen Chung, Daniel Rozin, Cate M, as well as Fabrizio « Bixio » Braghieri and Filippo Salerni. These artists bring fresh perspectives on the snake symbol and its capacity for continuous adaptation and transformation.

The Serpenti Factory exhibition also offers multisensory and interactive experiences, including an exclusive experience room, the original Bulgari Snake Game, the Infinity room, and Cinenimo. These immersive elements allow visitors to delve into the Serpenti world and its fascinating history.

Bulgari’s Serpenti icon has truly achieved its 75 years of infinite transformation, captivating the world with its timeless allure and evolving with the times, while remaining a symbol of elegance and strength.

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