A LOOK AT THE MONCLER GENIUS A/W 2019 SHOW

By Alice Butterlin

It’s the third installment of the Moncler Genius show, an incredible event where a bunch of designers from different generations and horizons meet to present their take on the Moncler aesthetic. This year a couple of new faces have been added to the project, making the Italian house an incubator for fresh talents from all over the world. Richard Quinn and Matthew Williams join the other geniuses and prove they definitely deserve their spot. The motto “One house, different voices” makes incredible sense when all the designers manage to shine through the Moncler pieces.

The A/W 2019 show took place in Milan yesterday and started with Richard Quinn delivering amazing prints, from retro flowers to animal prints on acid. Colors clashed and forms mingled in an eye-popping collection made of bodysuits, bold 50s-shaped printed coats with matching handbags and crazy thigh-high puffer jacket boots. Richard Quinn proves once again that he has a mind of his own, with tongue-in-cheek designs that will set you apart from the crowd. Then came Pierpaolo Piccioli’s collection, an array of beautiful floor-length puffer dresses. He managed to make nylon haute couture and step away from the classic Moncler image. That’s the whole point of this initiative – giving a new momentum to the Italian house. Piccioli was inspired by African textiles and invited Liya Kebede, who supports African artisans through her label lemlem, to collaborate on the pieces. Next came the Moncler 1952 women collection with a focus on layering and a sports luxe aesthetic. Looks were monochrome in hues of white, cognac, beige, oxblood, forest green and black. A blush-colored cozy fur-lined long puffer coat stole the show. The men’s side was a casual take on the house’s heritage with strong graphic logos and metallic touches. XXL leather bags were either worn cross body or held with a chunky nylon strap. Next, Moncler Grenoble was all about sophisticated functionality. Here’s what the designer had to say about the eclectic collection: “The mountain is where Moncler Grenoble belongs, which means that performance is focal. I stuck to the brief in terms of fabrics and shapes, but went the opposite way in terms of treatments, opting for tie-dye, fringes and patchworks that have a crafty feel. Still, you can ski in these”. The matching printed felt hats elevated the looks, which will not go unnoticed on ski slopes.

The British designer Simone Rocha is known for her avant-garde fashion, pushing the boundaries of ready-to-wear since 2010. Here, she has created a world of her own with models walking through what looked like an enchanted forest in voluminous puffer capes and cute balaclavas with pearls. It was Little Red Riding Hood meets a gang of girl scouts camping outdoors. Layered cream lace met with tent-like nylon volumes secured with colored rope. It was one of the most creative collections of the day and was followed by another contender for the title. Craig Green is also a bit of an outsider in ready-to-wear with a very distinctive blend of martial arts volumes and never-seen-before body shapes. Green focused on lightness and practicality and made every piece foldable in small squares. All the clothing is packable and meets with the demands of of a modern lifestyle. Technicality reaches new heights. 1017 ALYX 9SM’s Matthew Williams delivered an urban Moncler collection with shiny hardware details and cool accessories. He explains: “Moncler stands for long lasting and high-quality garments with function and comfort at the forefront. 1017 ALYX 9SM strives for the same standards. We tried to inject our modern take into these principles. With my collection, I wanted to attempt to create products that Moncler has yet to make, as well as have a true marriage of the 1017 ALYX 9SM and Moncler aesthetics.” Hiroshi Fujiwara’s collection was the most wearable – dare we say underwhelming? – with American college-wear and military influences seen in functional jackets with plenty of pockets and fur-lined hoods and logo-baring bomber jackets. Palm Angels had a lot of fun with its collection – a patchwork of references, prints and volumes that retained an almost punk vibe. “I started with the idea of a vandalized art gallery. The purity of the lines and form are abruptly challenged.” says Francesco Ragazzi. The event closed with an unexpected show: a couture collection for dogs! Classic hooded duvet dog vests were adorned with winter wonderland prints, from reindeers to snowflakes, and lacquered nylon in fluo colors.