ACNE STUDIOS MENS FALL/ WINTER 2022 | CRASH Magazine
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ACNE STUDIOS MENS FALL/ WINTER 2022

By Crash redaction

“Being in isolation has made me realize how much we are used to travelling. This led me to think about nomadic communities, like those in the north of Sweden near where I grew up. This collection is about how a language of clothing evolves within communities, mixing and contrasting pieces together,” says Jonny Johansson, creative director of Acne Studios.

A recurring theme this week then designers at the Paris Men’s shows are in a similar mood the to rest of us, still reverberating from the shocks of confinement it’s poignant to see that mental effects being translated into collections on the runways. Designers dreaming of escape, of a different society, and in turn offering us, as spectators and wearers, a root of escape.

So it was the Nomadic lifestyle, and the codes of transient communities that are at the root of the collection, a collection rooted in creativity and character: pieces are crafted and patch worked, as if well worn, purposefully mismatched, with colors both earthy and of the artist’s studio. It was a collaging of moods and feelings through clothes, and a reflection of the way we live now.

Menswear traditions were both respected and subverted, playing with proportion, with high waists and elongated silhouettes. Texture was crucial, both in individual pieces and then how they are contrasted together with fabrics centered around tweeds; crushed velvets; shearling; patch worked brocades; chunky knits; and washed and crinkled leather

There were oversized tailored coats in rustic tweed; jodhpur-cut denim pants; chunky belted cardigan in color flecked yarn; vivid color pyjamas with embellished sequins. Bib front knits with sticks woven into the yarn; floral buttons as if personally found; knitted braids as decoration; bags include mini versions of the Musubi, as well as mini-backpacks in shearling; trainers are from patchworks of mixed meshes, with a sole that mushrooms under the foot.

It featured a collaborated on jewelry with the American artist Jessi Reaves, who reimagined scrap fabrics and materials into wildly collaged furniture, there were sculptural rings and bracelets made from humble materials, like a necklace made of pieces of caning from a broken chair.

And a footwear collaboration with Kero, famous for its ‘beak’ design, Kero is an historical Swedish brand based in Sattajärvi, Swedish Lapland, since 1929 and was favored by Acne Studios creative director Jonny Johansson in his youth. Known for their unique hand-craftsmanship, for this collection, Acne Studios collaborated with Kero to create its own take on the Beak, as slip-ons, boots, and pairs attached to chaps that belt at the waist.

Discover the looks below:

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