Kunihiko Morinaga’s exploration of Umwelt, the German concept of the « surround-world, » took a mesmerizing turn in the Spring/Summer 2024 collection by Anrealage. Building on his fascination with special fabrics that change color through photochromic technology, Morinaga embarked on a journey that began with an invisible, clear, and colorless PVC base.

Act I: Anvisual Transformation

Anvisual, the brand’s patented photochromic technology, took center stage in a series of transparent garments crafted from photochromic PVC. These « empty » garments came to life under ultraviolet lights, morphing into vibrant, multicolored silhouettes that resembled giant couture bubble wrap filled with air. The contours of these translucent wonders were accentuated by graphic taped seams in denim, cotton, and Ultrasuede® in strikingly contrasting colors.

Peeking through the PVC garments, bodysuits adorned with miniature AZ monogram logos resembled the chromatophore cells of a chameleon’s skin. These bodysuits, made from Fairtrade cotton∞ developed in collaboration with Toyota Tsusho Inc., added a layer of intricate detail to the collection.

Completing the looks were a range of invisible PVC accessories, from inflatable earrings and bracelets to balaclavas and gauntlet-style gloves. Footwear options spanned from PVC boots to pristine white 3D-printed flats. A futuristic touch was introduced with Sixties-inspired shield sunglasses created in collaboration with X8, the innovative eyewear label founded by Won Lee.

Act II: The Shifting Universe of Color

Returning to the Umwelt concept, Morinaga explored the idea that the perception of color was not fixed but varied with environmental factors. Through the use of hyperspectral color control technology by NTT, the show’s lighting environment modulated, showcasing the phenomenon of « metamerism, » where similar colors appeared differently under different light sources.

The garments came alive as colors rippled across their surfaces, pulsating softly and illuminating striped motifs. Like the ever-changing hues of the sky, these surfaces reflected mood shifts, transitioning from understated vulnerability to explosive bursts of expressive color and sudden tonal shifts.

Technological innovation intertwined with handcraft, evident in sculptural looks featuring hand-embroidered swirling strips of photochromic PVC. Tailored pantsuits and a twin set of dress and jacket with a matching balaclava were adorned with doily-style patchworks of photochromic PVC squares edged with photochromic knitted seams. These looks transformed into polychromatic kaleidoscopes, adapting to varying light sources and then retreating to their invisible shells in the shadows.

The Cycle of Life: A Philosophical Parable

The collection conjured a poetic and otherworldly universe embodying the philosophical parable of « Existence » and « Nonexistence » coexisting in everything. The cycle of life came full circle as colors vanished, mirroring the fate of all living organisms at the mercy of time. Yet, they revealed the existence of the invisible and colorless, promising a future bloom someday.

Note: In this season, Anrealage had developed an exclusive, environmentally-friendly photochromic PVC made from next-generation, phthalate-free plasticizers, ensuring safety and sustainability in fashion.

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