The great rivers of London and Paris served as living inspiration for Kim Jones, the Artistic Director of Dior collections. For Jones, the ebbs and flows of the water reflect those of fashion, including the Dior Men’s Winter 2023-2024 line, in which flux, movement, ease and fluidity were central. It was also a reflection of the dynamism sought by Yves Saint Laurent with his accession to the helm of Dior at the age of 21 – the youngest couturier in history. Models absorbed the lessons of the past and applied them to the present and future: clothes were hybridized and metamorphosed, worn in individual ways with the agency of the wearer. Garments were taken directly from the archive, transposed and transformed: the sailor top from the marine ensemble designed by Christian Dior’s successor was loosened in cavalry twill and also became an elongated fisherman’s smock. The traditional vernacular language of knits is subverted through a sculptural approach to styling and draping together with a melding of tailoring. Effortlessness infused all, belying the precision and complexity of a wardrobe that never looks over-complicated.

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