Lutz Huelle unveiled his Spring Summer 2025 collection this morning at the French National Institute for Art History(INHA) in Paris. Titled « Let’s stay together! », the collection explores the interplay between classic wardrobe staples, featuring deconstructed suits transformed into skirts, tailored oversized shirts for a slim silhouette, and relaxed shorts on fluid bases. With lace details and vintage silk scarves adding unique touches, Huelle showcases a blend of formal and casual elements. Discover the interview with Lutz.

Iris Jeanson What were your inspirations behind this collection? 

Lutz Huelle My inspirations came from seeing a couple in the street—he was in a classic men’s suit, and she wore a long evening dress with lace. When I saw them, I thought about the space between those two looks. If you take them apart, you can explore everything that exists between an evening dress and a tailored suit. 

IJ That sounds intriguing! How did you translate that into your designs? 

LH Well, I started cutting into jackets, creating a waist-length style and using the lower part as a skirt. I fixed it onto a bustier, (Lutz shows the design) so you have the jacket here and the pants there, but the upper part is bare. I also used the lace from the evening dress on bombers, allowing it to float over t-shirts. I loved that idea so much that I attached silk scarves to tote bags, making them move beautifully as you walk. The lace was incorporated into shirts, denim, and tailored jackets too. 

IJ Can you share your favorite piece from this collection?

LH Oh, it’s a tough question! But I’d say my favorite is a slouchy men’s suit fixed onto an elastic jersey base. It’s sexy and has a nice masculine attitude, but it’s also sensual. I love how it combines different elements—it’s strong yet feminine, street-style yet classic. It all comes together to create something really interesting. 

IJ  After the show, what’s the first thing you like to do to unwind? 

LH Honestly, I like to dive straight into the next collection! There are so many ideas and inspirations from this show that I want to keep going. If you stop, it can be hard to start again. 

IJ That makes sense! What message do you hope people take away from your work today? 

LH For me, it’s about this space we’re in—it’s a classic setting built for knowledge and culture. It was inspired by crinolines and represents beauty and progress. Given the current state of the world, where books are being burned in some places, I want people to feel freedom and culture through my work. It’s about moving forward and embracing all the different aspects of who we can be—not just one thing or one person. This format captures the essence of the conversation while maintaining an engaging flow!

Discover the backstage at Lutz Huelle Spring/Summer 2025 collection on Crash.

Credit photos: Chiara Bruschini