Much mystery was surrounding the Neith Nyer A/W 2019 show yesterday. It had been revealed a couple of weeks before that the young Brazilian designer was to debut a collaboration with the legendary 90s French brand DDP during this Paris Fashion Week but it was still unclear as to what it would look like. The show notes talk of a “brutal car crash”, that we can interpret as the collision of two worlds, two distinct eras that come together as one. For this collection, Francisco Terra dug up archive pieces from DDP and gave them a makeover, like the classic baggy pants which were given the Neith Nyer treatment, appearing in a slightly different cut in a striking metallic shade. All the silhouettes were reminiscent of a trip to a flea market, where mountains of mismatched clothes are displayed and can make for unexpected outfits. Francisco Terra always puts forth his love for the tacky, even the vulgar, in fashion so it’s no surprise models were walking down the runway in tiny bikini tops paired with cinched multicolored mini skirts and pointy platform furry clogs (made in collaboration with Naomi Hille). It might seem a bit much but everything actually worked perfectly together. It’s not a secret that 90s are having a moment in fashion so why not take it to the next level? The aim was to blend sartorial references from the past without making them gimmicky. The eggman – iconic DDP logo – was burned on jersey pieces and hand-sewn hoodies, while retro flower prints covered up dresses and a cozy puffer jacket. Nothing screams 90s like knitwear and it was strong this season, seen in crop tops and huge scarves. More than a collaboration, the show actually announced a bigger surprise: Francisco Terra has been chosen to be the new creative director of DDP. We’ll have to see where this new project takes him…

All photos by Marijo Zupanov.