Botanical Satire and Genderless Tailoring: Simone Rocha Spring/Summer 2025 Unveiled | CRASH Magazine
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Botanical Satire and Genderless Tailoring: Simone Rocha Spring/Summer 2025 Unveiled

By Max Mendel

Simone Rocha unveils her Spring/Summer 2025 collection during the London Fashion Week, blending billowing silhouettes with seductive carnations in a presentation that is both sweet and satirical.

Drawing from her Irish heritage, Rocha fuses modern and traditional fabrics, creating a universe of genderless tailoring. Throughout the collection, botanicals take center stage, with intricate embellishments and trompe-l’oeil techniques reimagining her signature « trapped flower » technique— a continuation from previous seasons. Botanical bustwork and delicate tulle underpinnings soften the collection’s sculptural shapes.

A nod to traditional menswear and Rocha’s interpretation of choreographers Pina Bausch and Michael Clark’s performance from the early 80s titled Nelken (Carnations), carnations play a symbolic role, informing Rocha’s interpretation of the interplay between performance and reality. The « trapped flower » effect becomes a reflection of this tension, with trompe l’oeil techniques masking the flowers to evoke what happens both on stage and behind the scenes.

Rocha’s ravishing silhouettes and modern understanding of gender fluidity underscore her unique deconstruction and complement her reconstruction of traditional tailoring.

Discover Simone Rocha Spring/Summer 2025 collection at Crash.

 

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