For its first appearance on the runway, Kawakubo chose to accompany the show with a performance by the London Symphony Orchestra of Erik Satie’s music for Parade, a ballet created for Diaghilev’s Ballet Russes. The music featured unconventional sounds such as a typewriter, guns, and sirens.

The collection featured headpieces created from hair clips and ruffled footwear designed by Kids Love Gaite. The initial design had cavalry stripes incorporating ruffle-edged extended armholes that extended down to the hips. Later, trousers replaced the cavalry stripes with ruffles beneath jackets, and the ruffle lapels, especially when embracing the neck closely at the back, resembled clown collars, adding a carnival-like and absurdist flair. The pants took on a relaxed look with extremely wide lacey layers. The pieces showcased a dialogue between black and pink, appearing creatively distressed, with folds of satin-like pink fabric pulled out or half-sewn in place by the overlapping black wool. These jackets were paired with pink ruffled tulle-fronted shorts or pink zippered black scuba pants.

At the close Kawakubo focused on outerwear with opaque tulle edges, which were either filled with fabric to create a certain shape or layered with integrated garments. The final outfit was a transformed version of the first look, without the sheer parts and the metallic or coloured silk jacquard sections, while still retaining the original silhouette without the ruffles.

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Photo Credits: Elise Toide