FASHION

DIESEL SS23

By Roisin Breen

Diesel, founded by Renzo Rosso in 1978, has fashion prodigy Glenn Martens to credit for its recent comeback. After a series of strong seasons reviving Diesel and putting it firmly back on the fashion schedule, Martens’ shows have become some of the most anticipated of the fashion month. He truly comprehends the weft and warp of Diesel, a label rooted in denim mastery and has been able to take old classics and turn them into modern masterpieces.

Winding up in the masterpiece of the show held at the Allianz Cloud Arena that was to be the opening of Milan Fashion Week. Breaking the world record for the largest inflatable structure in the world, the show audience was almost 5000 strong, with over 3000 of the public tickets being given for free to Milan fashion students and those under 25 years old. Having a savvy understanding of the modern world, Diesel also invited NFT collectors to attend and every single guest was given a commemorative NFT.

“I wanted to open Diesel up to the public, for people who may never have been to a fashion show before. They deserve a spectacle,” said Martens.

It’s a sentiment reminiscent of his foregoers, legends like McQueen, Galliano, Gaultier, Mugler. Designers that saw the value in putting on a real show for audiences and who knew how to transcend the worlds of fashion, art, theater and performance. After years of pandemic and lockdowns Martens is bringing back to the audience what they have all been craving.

As for the collection itself, “Democratic fashion is everything, with experimentation and subversion for every single day,” said Martens. There was every kind of denim experimentation one could imagine…devoré denim, denim corsetry, denim knitwear, sun bleached denim. Embroidered, distressed, bonded, acid washed, trompe-l’oeil prints Plasticised denim was waterproofed like jelly, creases left intentionally undyed, and metallic printed coats were like a city reflected in chrome. “Diesel Library” denim pieces were bonded and encased in layers of rough-cut denim. Artisanal denim pieces were cut and distressed, lending them a fur-like texture. One unique artisanal coat was made entirely from over 15,000 distressed and brushed Diesel labels.

The fabric experimentation didn’t stop outside of denim, there were solarized utility pants with supersized pockets, satin cargo pants, little fluid tops held together by wide utility belts. Nylon utility jackets and flying pants had cut away cotton layers, organza, cut-open dresses and pants, double-layer printed T-shirts with smiley holes cut into the top layer to reveal the print beneath. Acid floral slip dresses trimmed with lace, tank minidresses, vivid knits that had been coated then cracked open and bonded leather jackets were cut with raw edges.

In footwear slip-on denim heels had utility pockets, strappy sandals had sporty soles, while patent boots were finished with a metallic D. Men’s flip-flops were molded, while Prototype sneakers were cut open for summer. 1DR bags are medium or micro, while D-vina bags are tricked out with sparkling charms, or reimagined with a molded D.

This season’s Diesel Eyewear collection is a special collaboration with EssilorLuxottica, launching exclusively through Diesel networks in February 2023. Each style, from aviator to wraparound, has color edging and metallic temples finishing on a perfect D. One limited edition model has been exclusively developed for Diesel Runway and only 55 units will be immediately available through pre-order on diesel.com with delivery in November 2022.

Discover all the looks below.

Discover more at diesel.com