ERL presented its eighth collection for their Spring/Summer 2024 collection titled ‘Make Believe,’ in Venice Beach, California, at Pitti Uomo Immagine.

The brand takes us back to the futur, to the year 2176 precisely, where rising sea levels have transformed Florence and attracted California surfers in search of waves. A group of young American surfers, disguised as wealthy elites, infiltrates a surreal ball, stumbling upon an extraordinary collection in the ambassador’s closet. ‘Make Believe’ merges ancient relics, opulent evening wear, and intriguing objects from around the world into stunning pieces of wearable art.

ERL’s refined suiting and tailoring capture tradition with a nod to the future. Each handcrafted garment exudes upscale fabrication, youthful surf culture, and intricate details. Shirts become jackets, suit jackets transform into shirts, and puffers and knitwear shimmer with champagne tinsel and metallic accents.

Fabrics take center stage, featuring flyweight California silk blends adorned with crystal-encrusted monograms and iridescent silk taffeta. The color palette explores ethereal tonal hues of silvers, greys, and taupe. The ERL man is a knight, or a diver, or an astronaut off duty. Think Space Odyssey meets the Monty Python.

ERL expands its repertoire with footwear and eyewear. Footwear pays homage to the designer’s skate and surf roots, while eyewear blends thick rubber frames with futuristic transparent elements and skater-inspired silhouettes. Collaborations add a touch of artistic expression as a jewelry project with Tom Binns merges unique artistic language with collaged found objects. Artist Oliver Herring’s contribution introduces a sci-fi-inspired quilt made of transparent mylar tape. The conceptual show seems like the meeting point for artistic souls to connect and think collectively about who the man they are dressing is, where does he come from and in which century he’s evolving. We may take in consideration the hints ERl gives us, but only the viewer knows the truth as every silhouette can be left for interpretation.

ERL’s ‘Make Believe’ collection showcases commissioned pieces from renowned institutions like the LA Opera and Florence Opera, merging fashion and performing arts seamlessly. The brand’s humour and sense of sarcasm paired with the quality of the garment keeps on surprising us and ask questions about both the state of the world but also the state of fashion in a light but self aware way.

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