Fashion transcends the conventional notions of gender, and FendiI’s latest collection, aptly named ‘Friends of Fendi,’ exemplifies this ethos. Curated by Kim Jones and Silvia Venturini Fendi, this collection is a testament to their belief in sincerity over strategy, with a genuine focus on friendship. Crossing the boundaries of the fashion industry, this diverse series of projects and collections stands as a unique testament to the brand’s progressive vision. In this endeavor, the collection, curated in collaboration with Stefano Pilati, delves into both the traditional womenswear and menswear domains, pushing FENDI into uncharted territory. It goes beyond gender, focusing on character and iconoclasm. Drawing inspiration from the 1920s and the 2020s, Pilati reimagines the concept of ‘the flapper’ for the contemporary era, presenting a fresh take on both clothing and casting.

The flapper of the 1920s, characterized by her slender, corset-less figure, bobbed hair, and daring spirit, was a symbol of female freedom. Pilati now sees her as a symbol of freedom transcending gender boundaries. The collection blurs the lines between girlish boys and boyish girls, where cultural and aesthetic shifts merge, and tradition mingles with subversion. This sense of duality, a trademark Fendi quality, permeates the collection. The garments and accessories embody a hybridization of styles, fusing the rigidity and structure of masculine fashion with the soft, curvaceous lines of femininity. Men’s tailoring coexists with silk or leather camisoles for men, while women’s tailoring is comfortably embraced by both sexes. Traditional construction techniques are experimented with throughout the collection, yet they remain rigorously comfortable.

For instance, a new take on the ‘basque’ – typically associated with a bodice – is incorporated into tailored trousers and skirts, featuring a drawstring waistband and a soft bodice that complements the contrasting cotton and silk shirting. This design is flattering and extends the body’s natural lines, a testament to Pilati’s mastery of cut and construction for both men and women. He knows the rules, but he also knows when and how to break them to apply universally. The duality in this collection extends to where Milan meets Rome. The melding of Milanese bourgeois chic with Roman freedom creates a unique juxtaposition. It plays with bourgeois primness while embracing an aristocratic insouciance. Classic silhouettes, materiality, and taste are meticulously and playfully approached by Milanese Pilati in the quintessential Roman house, resulting in a harmonious fusion of two distinct worlds.

‘Friends of FENDI’ is more than a collection; it is a celebration of diversity, embracing the rich history and innovation of one of fashion’s most iconic brands. Through the lens of Kim Jones, Silvia Venturini Fendi, and Stefano Pilati, this collection embodies a new era in fashion, where friendship and sincerity reign supreme, transcending the confines of gender and tradition.

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