Satoshi Kuwata, winner of the LVMH 2023 Prize, collaborated with 24S for the « Parisian Playground » exclusive capsule. His label, Setchu, reveals its unique blend of determined deconstruction and functional elegance. Hailing from Kyoto, Kuwata’s wardrobe is inspired by the art of origami, seamlessly blending Western dressing with impeccable Japanese tailoring. For this 24S capsule he designed sportswear pieces adorned with zippers.

Iris Jeanson Could you share how your background influences the unique blend of Japanese and Western cultures in your designs?

Satoshi Kuwata My background has been instrumental in shaping the unique blend of Japanese and Western cultures evident in my designs. Growing up in Japan, I was immersed in a culture rich in tradition, craftsmanship, and attention to detail. This upbringing instilled in me a deep appreciation for the beauty of simplicity and precision.

On the other hand, my exposure to Western culture through travels, education, and work experiences broadened my design perspective. I was inspired by the creativity, innovation, and individualism prevalent in Western fashion.

Combining these influences, I strive to create designs that seamlessly blend the elegance and refinement of Japanese aesthetics with the boldness and experimentation of Western fashion. Each piece in the 24s knitwear collection reflects this harmonious fusion, offering a contemporary yet timeless appeal that resonates with a global audience.

IJ The “Parisian Playground” collection, created in collaboration with 24S and inspired by the energetic spirit of Paris, showcases a blend of avant-garde fashion and luxury activewear. How do you balance functionality with creativity in your designs?

SK Balancing functionality with creativity is paramount in my design process, particularly evident in the ‘Parisian Playground’ collection. This collaboration with 24S draws inspiration from the vibrant spirit of Paris and merges avant-garde fashion with luxury activewear. To achieve this balance, I prioritize incorporating fabrics and performance-enhancing features while infusing each piece with innovative design elements and sophisticated style.

By integrating top quality materials and functional design inspired by traditional Japanese cuts, I strive to create timeless classics with a activewear twist. Ultimately, this approach results in garments that seamlessly blend form and function, catering to the dynamic lifestyle of today’s fashion-forward individuals.

IJ Your designs often feature intricate details and innovative techniques, such as the incorporation of origami into traditional European garments. What draws you to these techniques, and how do you envision them evolving in future collections?

SK I’m drawn to intricate details and innovative techniques because they add a layer of depth and uniqueness to my designs. The incorporation of origami into traditional European garments, for example, allows me to blend different cultural influences and create something truly distinctive. Looking ahead, I envision these techniques evolving further in future collections. I plan to continue experimenting with fusion techniques, exploring new cultural influences, and pushing the boundaries of design. By constantly seeking inspiration from diverse sources and challenging traditional norms, I aim to keep my designs timeless and functional in an ever-changing fashion landscape.

IJ Can you tell us about any specific moments or aspects of your Parisian life that inspired you for this 24S capsule?

SK Living in Paris has been a constant source of inspiration for me, and many aspects of daily life in this dynamic city have influenced the creation of the 24S capsule collection. From leisurely walks around the streets of the city of lights, I’ve been captivated by the city’s vibrant atmosphere.The charm of the people and the lifestyle of the city have found their way into the intricate patterns and structural elements of the capsule collection.

Moreover, the eclectic fashion scene of Paris, with its mix of classic sophistication and avant-garde flair, has inspired me to create pieces that embody this unique blend of styles. Whether it’s the effortless chic of Parisian street style or the refined inspiration of haute couture, I’ve sought to capture the essence of Parisian fashion in each garment.

Overall, my experiences living in Paris have infused the 24S capsule collection with a sense of romance, sophistication, and joie de vivre that reflects the spirit of this enchanting city.

IJ What is Paris for you?

SK Paris, to me, is a city where every corner holds a story, whether it’s the grandeur of its architectural masterpieces, the intimacy of its hidden cafés, or the vibrancy of its artistic scene. Paris embodies elegance and sophistication, yet it’s also a place of warmth and charm. Paris is not just a city; it’s a way of life—a celebration of beauty, passion, and joie de vivre that resonates deeply with me.

IJ You recently showcased the Setchu x Davies & Son installation at the Biennale Arte in Venice, blending traditional Savile Row tailoring with Japanese cultural elements. Can you share the inspiration behind this project and how you aimed to create this experience?

SK The collaboration with Davies & Son is a truly exciting project, stemmed from the rich traditions of both Savile Row tailoring and Japanese craftsmanship. We aimed to create an experience that celebrated the heritage of both cultures while pushing the boundaries of traditional design.

For this project, we drew inspiration from the elegance and precision of Savile Row tailoring, as well as the intricate artistry of Japanese craftsmanship, including origami and textile techniques. Our goal was to seamlessly blend these elements to create garments that were both timeless and innovative.

In terms of the installation itself, we wanted to transport visitors into a world where East meets West. The design of the space reflected this fusion, with elements of traditional Japanese architecture juxtaposed with the classic elegance of Savile Row. Through curated displays and interactive elements, we aimed to immerse visitors in the craftsmanship and artistry behind each garment, inviting them to appreciate the intricate details and cultural significance of the collaboration. Overall, it was an incredible opportunity to showcase the beauty of cross-cultural collaboration in Venice in the days of the Biennale opening and celebrate the intersection of tradition and innovation in fashion.

IJ Looking ahead, what are your aspirations for the future of Setchu, both creatively and commercially? Are there any upcoming projects ?

SK Next for Setchu are plans both creative and commercial. Creatively, we aim to continue pushing boundaries and exploring new frontiers in design. We’re committed to nurturing our brand identity, infusing it with innovative techniques, and staying true to our ethos of celebrating cultural fusion.

Commercially, we’re focused on building meaningful partnerships, growing our global presence, and connecting with a diverse audience who shares our passion for craftsmanship and creativity.

Photo: Setchu’s look for the 24S « Parisian Playground » campaign

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