Following the vibrant « Not Afraid » presentation, this meeting with Teppei Fujita, the visionary designer behind sulvam, offers an intimate glimpse into the creative process and inspirations for the 25SS collection. Founded by Fujita in 2014, sulvam quickly gained international acclaim, winning the “Tokyo Fashion Award” and the Vogue prize « Who is on Next? Dubai. » A graduate of Bunka Fashion College and a former collaborator with Yohji Yamamoto, Fujita’s approach blends alluring masculinity with contemporary tailoring, emphasizing high-quality fabrics and innovative silhouettes. The 25SS collection marks a departure from sulvam’s usual tailoring focus, featuring vibrant patterns and colors, including tie-dye jacquard, floral-camouflage Aloha shirts, and antique-patterned denim. Set against an « under construction » backdrop, symbolizing the upcoming opening of sulvam’s first Paris store.

Iris Jeanson What was the inspiration behind the “Not Afraid” collection ?

Teppei Fujita It’s the same as every season; my feelings aren’t always tied to a specific inspiration. A lot has happened in the past ten years, and I’ve faced many challenges, some of which might be lifelong. However, now I have a supportive team, so nothing really scares me anymore, and I’ve realized that. This realization influenced the theme I chose for this season.

IJ I would love to know what motivated you to shift from Sulvam’s usual tailoring-focused approach to a broader focus for the 25SS collection?

TF I felt a strong desire to explore different design avenues beyond just tailoring. There were many ideas and concepts that came to mind, and I wanted to bring those to life through my work.

IJ Can you discuss the unique materials featured this season, such as the jacquard with a tie-dye motif and the newly developed Japanese polyester blend denim?

TF Similar to my approach with design, I wanted to use a variety of fabrics this time. My goal wasn’t to create something completely novel, but rather to craft something fresh and new from familiar materials.

IJ What influenced the bold use of colors and patterns, such as the vibrant shades in the knitwear and the combination of floral and camouflage in the Aloha shirts?

TF Given that it’s a Spring/Summer collection, I chose to use light and bright colors. Additionally, with so many contradictory elements in the world, I wanted to infuse as much cheerfulness into my work as possible.

IJ How did you integrate Sulvam’s Classic Line into this collection ?

TF Thanks to this line, we’re able to create a wide range of designs each season. While traditional classic tailoring might seem boring to me, this series naturally blends classic elements with other styles in the collection, offering a fresh perspective.

IJ Can you share some details about the upcoming Paris store ?

TF We’ll have a pre-opening on August 3rd, with the official opening at the end of September. The store will feature some classic lines and special items made by our couturier in our Paris studio, which will be exclusively available here. Additionally, we plan to introduce custom-made shirts.

IJ What are your future plans for Sulvam ?

TF I’m aiming to expand the Sulvam brand globally rather than limiting it to being recognized as a Japanese brand. This ambition led us to open our only store in Paris. There are so many projects I want to pursue; it’s almost overwhelming to keep up with them all.

@sulvam