FASHION

JACQUEMUS SPRING-SUMMER 2016 PARIS

By Crash redaction

LE NEZ ROUGE: THE DREAM OF JACQUEMUS SS16

Naming a collection « Le Nez Rouge » (the red nose) might appear to be a risky challenge to take on. But if you can trust one designer to deliver, it is undeniably Jacquemus. Staged at the Paris Event Center on Day 1 of this Paris Fashion Week, the Jacquemus SS16 show was more like a theatrical performance. The show opened with the designer’s 10-year-old cousin, Jean, pushing a huge ball of red fabric across the circled runway in a dimly lit atmosphere and on the sound of heavy piano notes. The first look to come out set the tone: the collection is about deconstructed classic suiting. With a palette of three main colors – marine blue, dark red, and white – it explores the codes of men’s suits and gives them a new, feminine meaning: ties are worn as strapless bras, white sleeves are exaggerated and used in so many ways. Hemlines are short and bare skin introduces the element of sensuality, always connected to a certain sense of innocence with Jacquemus. An out-of-time, dreamy vision: Jacquemus appear towards the middle of the show, walking barefoot with a white horse at his side, his cousin Jean following him while carrying with visible difficulty a huge red tie. Is this the struggle of growing up? Jacquemus’ dreams may be melancholic, but his collections are still right on point.

Photo credits: Shoji Fujii