FASHION

LONDON FALL WINTER 2017/18 MENSWEAR FASHION WEEK RECAP

By Crash redaction

DISCOVER THE HIGHLIGHTS OF LONDON MENSWEAR FASHION WEEK FALL WINTER 2017/18

London’s Fall Winter 2017/18 Men’s Fashion Week has just concluded and there is a lot to remember. During this groundbreaking week we noticed numerous upcoming trends, such as the return of tapestry patterns, as seen on Craig Green through long and large tunics, or the many scarfs and funky skirts from J.W. Anderson, as well as its funny slippers. Moreover, J.W. Anderson also showcased the trend of long sleeves and XXL sweaters, together with a type of poncho. We also found an entirely tattooed fine polo-neck jumper at Topman’s show. Camo inspirations continued to pop up at several shows, with all-camo looks and bags ; however, it also reflects paratrooper, war or safari inspirations. Fueling the comeback of the logos, Christopher Shannon made the original choice of featuring fake logos on its shirts. New trends are also on the way, such as the crop sweater/shirt seen at Xander Zhou’s fashion show, the fluorescent checked and camouflage prints seen at Christopher Raeburn and Liam Hodges’s shows or the high-waisted pants, often worn with a belt and hoodie, as shown by many brands like Liam Hodges, Astrid Andersen or the MAN collective, among others ; but, we find the puffa pant too to complete the silhouettes with jacket ones as seen at Liam Hodges and Christopher Shannon fashion shows. In continuity with J.W. Anderson’s colorful vibes, Liam Hodges and Bobby Abley revealed pop and joyful fur coats.

But the best of this season came from beauty and accessories: most of these items, which are usually “feminine,” were revisited here. Indeed Bobby Abley revealed a range of chokers and Cottweiler created fluorescent navel piercings. The designer also brought multicolor motorcycle helmets to top off its silhouettes. Designers all banked heavily on beauty. Indeed, Vivienne Westwood put colored squares and invasive white blocks on the faces of her models. Matthew Miller continued on this path with small and large lines below the eyes or through the mouth, while Charles Jeffrey showed faces covered entirely in tribal prints and make up that recalled a circus atmosphere. But the most surprising look came from Christopher Shannon, whose models bore vibrantly colorful flag masks on their faces. In terms of ambience, J.W. Anderson gave us a show under a full techno soundtrack and Charles Jeffrey of the MAN collective spiced up his show with a group of performers dressed entirely in nude colors, acting as frightened prisoners desperately trying to escape their surroundings. Finally, Grace Wales Bonner presented her first collection and show since receiving the LVMH prize last June. Her collection combined feminine and masculine silhouettes to focus once again on black male sexuality, while many pieces displayed a regal aspect. All these collections seem to announce that the rest of Men’s Fall 2017/2018 Fashion Week will also be full of surprises.

If fashion was the instigator of the societal changes, it also became interested in politics. In a post-chaotic period, where the extreme right does not cease to permeate the mentalities, the London designers take a Baudelairian look and oscillate between spleen and ideal, facing the period Trump and post-Brexit. At Craig Green, a black padded waistcoat seems designed to bullet proof. Prints here appear as pamphlets and grant to deliver a message: Mihara Yasuhiro said « This Is Tomorrow », Bobby Abley chants « Power Up », Christopher Shannon diverts Hugo Boss’s logo which appears on hoodies « Loss International ». Lastly, at Matthew Miller’ show, models are shown with bloody noses.

www.londonfashionweekmens.com

Written by Charlotte Gendron, Lisa Tomasi & Tom Raynaud-Lacroze