After what seemed like a rut of sportswear-infused garments – think logo sweaters, large skater pants, sneakers and slouchy printed tees – Raf Simons has acknowledged the fact that it was maybe time to move on. By moving on he meant bringing back tailoring and lush materials for men, an aesthetic that seems to be the grown-up version of his latest collections. It was quite refreshing to see, in the dim lights of a warehouse in Montreuil, crisp satin coats with oversized shoulders in emerald green, dark blue and hot pink, glistening like gems. 80s came to mind of course, but also late 70s punk with elements like the destroyed tank tops, jewellery and even a top made of what looked like plastic six-pack beer holders. Surely, Simons will always look back to past subcultures but with a futuristic outtake on it.

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All photos by Elise Toidé.