For the Spring Summer 2023 Paco Rabanne show, metal grates and scaffolding evoke an underground scene and echo to one of the earliest Paco Rabanne shows. Julien Dossena explores beneath and beyond the surface, subverting perceptions of sensuality and strength. Grunge flourishes this season in cyber-specific hues of vivid green, violet, blue and red. Fetish-inspired materials such as clear PVC are developed to elevated effect, merged with masculine suiting, or shown as a parka covered in studs like droplets of liquid metal. There are sumptuous and romantic applications of PVC, as well, printed with flowers and panelling classic grain de poudre, or placed atop tapestry fabric. When PVC seamlessly fuses with assemblage, it’s as though the look is changing states, almost morphing. Latex enters the collection, transforming pieces in unexpected ways. An initial strangeness shifts to sophistication. There are dresses moulded like a second skin and injected with blurring color as edges ripple. Elsewhere, latex appears fluid and light as silk, a simulacrum for slip dresses and boudoir shorts bordered with intricate incrustations of lace. Latex is imposed upon metal mesh, a duality that advances the emblematic Paco Rabanne material once again. Slick surfaces are counterbalanced by texture and movement: from a crackled leather coat to silver metallic trousers that retain their creases. Variations on chain mail include modified fringes that seem to disintegrate as they descend. Fringes also appear on frothy tiered skirts that resemble exaggerated tutus. Notions of bondage assume alternate associations; leather bands and cuffs that wrap the body are worn to empower while eyelets patterned across harnesses attest to handcraft. And for every suggestion of protection – the iconic 1969 assemblage bags are newly shelled by PVC. Discover Crash’s backstage photos by Elise Toide.