The long awaited Gucci Spring/Summer 2020 show took place yesterday in Milan and certainly did not disappoint. It was actually two shows in one with the runway opening up on a line of models dressed in a variation of white down jackets standing sickly on an airport-looking moving walkway, painted in the kind of green you only see in hospitals. One couldn’t help but think of Helmut Lang in the 90s, the kind of conceptual show that played around and deconstructed a piece of clothing to the maximum. One of the models held her palms up where it read: « Mental health is not fashion ». But that bizarre clinical outing was only the first part of the collection, an appetizer for the much more sophisticated and sensual main course.

The second batch of models, cured from their health issues, came out in head-to-toe 70s inspired pieces, from enormous librarian tinted sunglasses with chunky chains, leather pencil skirts with sheer blouses tucked in to a pair of rich brown velvet bellbottoms. Long dresses swept the floor in black or an all-over Gucci motif. There was also an abundance of lace, in bright red or neon pink, the epitomy of sensual daywear. This collection felt a bit more edited than the ones before, still referencing multiple eras and subcultures but in a streamlined way. Discover some of the looks below.