VALENTINO MEN FALL/WINTER 2017/18 PARIS
By Crash redaction
« CHANGE IS A STATEMENT »: PIERPAOLO PICCIOLI’S FIRST SOLO MEN’S COLLECTION
For his first solo men’s collection, presented at the Hotel Particulier Iéna, Pierpaolo Piccioli presents a very British style. Long coats layer over a wool sweater or trouser suit, while a leather trench or duffle coat accessorize looks and tartan jackets give a vintage feel to outfits. The references to the British wardrobe do not end there. Pierpaolo Piccioli teamed up with Jamie Reid, the English artist best known for the Sex Pistols album cover, to create two slogans for the collection: « Beauty is a birthright, reclaim your heritage” and « It seemed to be the end of the next beginning. »
The colors are relatively plain, alternating between black, gray, sky blue, or green. In other words: the typical colors of uniforms. Despite these sober colors, pink occasionally lends contrast to the outfit and gives a joyful splash of color.
One would think that by collaborating with Jamie Reid, Piccioli would have produced an umpteenth repetition of punk culture. Nevertheless, he did not restrict himself to the fantasy of « punk » to celebrate English culture. In fact, his reflection goes far beyond that. On a mood board, he shows portraits of Francis Bacon, Lucian Freud, or Caravaggio. Not only does he take over the traditional uniform of the English youth, Pierpaolo Piccioli also manages to infuse a rock twist by introducing long leather coats. And that is where the real strength of this fashion show lies: in its ability to find the right balance.
© Valentino
Written by Lisa Tomasi
