In the ever-evolving world of fashion, designers constantly strive to challenge conventions and push the boundaries of creativity. Glenn Martens, with his Spring/Summer 2024 collection, has managed to do just that. This collection, designed under the Y/Project label, explores the concept of open-ended questions rather than finite answers. It’s an expressive journey that embraces versatility and pragmatism, offering a captivating fusion of structure, graphism, and the distortion of traditional garment ancestry.

Martens’ SS 2024 collection is a testament to his willingness to challenge the norm. The designer presents a quest to elongate or disrupt the silhouette while harmonizing it with layered exercises of structure and graphism. In this collection, the perception and preconception of a garment’s origin are intentionally distorted, giving birth to a mesmerizing array of pieces that seem to defy gravity.
One of the defining features of this collection is its inherent modularity. The garments are designed to allow boundless transformation, resulting in sculptural gestures that appear to be suspended in mid-air. These sculptural forms evoke a sense of awe and wonder, taking inspiration from historical notions, including gothic architectures, genesis stories, and patina, adding a touch of dark majesty to the season.

To achieve these dynamic, shifting forms, Martens employs innovative techniques such as foiling on the outside and wiring on the inside of the garments. These techniques create whorls and peaks of fabric that stand off the body, blurring the lines between traditional and abstract forms. Recognizable archetypes are seemingly wrenched and wrought into abstraction, yet with the ability to return to classical proportions if the wearer desires. Martens introduces hook-and-eye closures and press studs that enable endless possibilities for the reconfiguration of style. Lingerie dresses can be bifurcated, and parkas can be transformed with ease. Two-tone denim and leather are layered upon each other, creating undulating and cowled workwear that showcases tension and fluidity in design.The tension continues with halter neck tailoring suspended from fluid linings and tiered dresses that dissolve into spiral hems of double-face satin and iridescent taffeta. Martens’ attention to detail and craftsmanship shines through in these pieces, creating a sense of movement and transformation. Memory prints, with their creased and burnt appearance, echo the trompe l’oeil effect seen in gradient knit dresses that trace the body’s contours. This technique reflects the fragility and heightened emotions of the season in two dimensions, adding depth and complexity to the collection.

Glenn Martens’ Spring/Summer 2024 collection is a masterful exploration of versatility and pragmatism in fashion. By challenging traditional silhouettes, embracing modularity, and employing innovative techniques, Martens has created a collection that defies gravity and distorts perceptions. With elements of dark majesty and abstract beauty, this collection offers fashion enthusiasts a thought-provoking and visually stunning experience, pushing the boundaries of what is possible in contemporary fashion.

@yproject_official

Backstage pictures by @schohaja