Yohji Yamamoto’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection is a masterclass on deconstruction. Through the use of patchwork, draping and asymmetrical ling, the collection’s dark playfulness shines through. Black and white with pops of red and navy blue are the primary colors keeping to the brand’s identity. Curved hats with lace spilling from the brim are styled seemingly playing off typical funeral attire. 

Models walked slowly down the white runway set in Paris’ Salons de l’Hotel De Ville, with a simple black backdrop, highlighting the garment layering and deconstruction. Denim, lace, pleats and plaid materials are meshed together as one, laid out in all directions breaking the typical garment conventions with ease and intentionality. Styled with all the looks are chunky black sandals creating somewhat of a juxtaposition within a singular look. 

The hair varied from dark blunt bobs, asymmetric hair cuts and inflated and dishevelled updos. Contrarily, the makeup was understated with subtle hints of dark eyeliner. Closing the show were bold red long and flowy pieces embodied by the models all wearing the noted black hat with lace cascading down. 

The collection appears to tell a story beginning with a black garment that has very subtle hints of red and closing with a full red piece.  An emotional journey takes place – although unclear what kind – and Yamamoto does an excellent job at highlighting it. The collection’s layering, deconstruction and asymmetric silhouettes provide a spring/summer airiness and playfulness while simultaneously emitting subtle darkness. 

Credit photo: Monica Feudi